Engineering Biology (Science and Technology Committee Report)

Lord Freyberg Excerpts

Monday 28th April 2025 Grand Committee

[Lord Freyberg (CB)]

My Lords, as the final speaker before the gap, I wholeheartedly congratulate the noble Baroness, Lady Brown of Cambridge, and the committee on their excellent report. I also put on record my thanks to Jenny Haigh and Dilys Williams from the University of the Arts London for their helpful briefing for today’s debate.

For reasons of brevity, I will focus on chapter 5 of the report, “Engineering Biology for Growth”, particularly the sections “Scaling Up Companies” and “Incentives and Mandates to Create a Market”. These sections shape my suggestions for the fashion and textiles industry—the focus of my speech.

The report warns that UK innovations risk being “exploited overseas” rather than scaled domestically, a particular concern for the fashions and textiles sector. The committee observes that:

“Without significant incentives or mandates to act as a ‘pull factor’ … companies are unlikely to move away from current practice”.


This speaks directly to the fashion industry’s reluctance to shift away from synthetic materials, with more than two-thirds of our clothing currently made from petroleum-derived fabrics, primarily polyester.

The stakes are significant. The UK fashion sector contributes £62 billion to our economy and supports 1.2 million jobs. Yet this vital industry’s environmental footprint is unsustainable, with clothing responsible for 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions, more than shipping and aviation combined. The need for sustainable alternatives is therefore urgent.

Engineering biology offers such alternatives. The committee highlights Colorifix, whose biological dyeing process cuts chemical pollution by 80% and saves vast quantities of water through fewer rinses. Recognised as a 2023 Earthshot Prize nominee, it aims to scale its process to 15% of the world’s clothes by 2030. Other innovators include Fibe, which is developing fibres from potato waste, Arda Biomaterials, which is turning spent grain into leather-like materials, and Oxford Biopigments which is creating plant-based dyes.

However, as the committee notes, these technologies face scaling challenges. To address these barriers, we could focus on three areas: first, bridging the “valley of death” between research and commercialisation with dedicated financial support for fashion applications; secondly, implementing a co-ordinated regulatory approach with sandboxes, as discussed by the noble Lord, Lord Willetts, and my noble friend Lady Freeman, for testing novel biomaterials, and streamlined approval processes; and, thirdly, securing our talent pipeline through expanded training programmes. As noted by the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, the need for technical skills will start taking on new forms as it welcomes exchanges with traditional skill sets. We must therefore create programmes that connect creative and scientific fields, as highlighted by the noble Baroness, Lady Willis, educating a new generation of designers who understand both aesthetics and biology.

I would be remiss not to acknowledge that individual innovations alone cannot transform the sector. The recommendations from the 2019 Fixing Fashion: Clothing Consumption and Sustainablity report remain relevant, such as tracing new raw materials to tackle supply chain abuses, reforming taxation to reward sustainable design, banning the incineration of usable stocks and shifting incentives towards reuse and repair.

Small UK businesses display remarkable sustainability innovation yet face significant competition from larger players. They need targeted financial support and capacity building to help level the playing field. The EU leads in regulating fashion sustainability, so if we fail to act, the UK risks losing both competitiveness and this vital industry. By implementing the committee’s recommendations, we can position the UK as a global leader in sustainable textiles, creating economic opportunity while addressing climate imperatives.